Overview
- Bicycle: Trek 1.5 racing bike, standard setup, 7L handlebar
bag, lights and armadillo armoured tyres.
- Trailer: Extra wheel trailer with 2 60 L Crosso dry panniers
- Trip: Alkmaar to Strasbourg via Arnhem mostly following the
Rhine. Detours included Frankfurt and Heidelberg.
- Plan: Loose plan. Hostels were preferred but I had a tent in
emergency but I never had to use it. Was aiming for a 12 day trip but ending up
spending 16 days. From Strasbourg, I got a train to Paris and met up with
friends for a few days and then we drove back.
Plan
At the end of September, my contract with the company
expired. I did not renew with them and instead decided to move on. In this
process I also decided to take some time out as I still had some money coming
in from side projects. Thus I fixed my sights on cycling down the Rhine taking
about 3 weeks in total for the holiday. I had never toured by bicycle before. I
have extensive road bike experience and from my younger days (I am 27), downhill
mountain bike experience. However something like this was completely new for
me.
The first step was to decide what setup I was going to use.
I had a Trek 1.5 racing bike but I did consider buying a new bike specifically
a touring bike completely setup for touring. The two bikes I was considering
were from Koga and from the Cannondale touring range. The latter was discontinued
and the former seemed to my mind to be over the top for the time I would spend.
Thus I decided to stay with the racing bike. The next step was to work
out whether I would go ultra-light or carry gear. I decided that the time of
year warranted gear. Options for carrying gear on the racing bike were
limited so I decided to buy a trailer. I choose the
extra wheel trailer over the bob
yak as it allowed me to buy the complete package. With the Crosso dry panniers,
the trailer cost approx €300 + delivery from Poland.
Route
The next step was to pick my route. I decided to go down the
Rhine along the
Rhineradweg.
I choose this as it is a pretty flat route (according to
bikemap.net) and should have a pretty
good surface for many parts. Further in the case of any emergencies, the area
is well populated and has many bike stores and train stations. I planned to
stay in hostels but I carried a tent just in case. I had my stops laid out until
Cologne. After this point I would work on the fly. The distances I was going to
do until that point were on average 100km per day. I would at Cologne assess
the setup and the distances. I would aim to start early (06:00-08:00) and
finish early (no later than 15:00).
Trip details
The first few days were pretty uneventful. I had travelled
to my 1st step Utrecht before but I had a beautiful day of sun.
Arnhem my next stop, was new and the landscape started to change from the flat,
open plains to forest areas with some slight inclines. Getting across the
border proved to be difficult as when I left the hostel, there was essentially
a thunderstorm occurring. Further calamity would occur as the side of the Rhine
I would choose was closed to cyclists just as I crossed the border. There were
no boat crossings in the vicinity so I had to detour. The storm lasted all day
and I stopped around 14:00 to assess my situation. I had cycled 70km and due to
the detour had a similar distance to go. I also had picked up an injury on my Achilles
so I decided to get the train the rest of the way to Duisburg where I stayed
with friends. The next day having strapped up my ankle and finding that all my
gear was dry, I continued to Cologne where I would have 2 days to spend.
At Cologne I opened all my bags and emptied then. I did find
a small amount of moisture but this was more due to having hastily packed
semi-wet clothes into the waterproof bags rather than water ingress during the
storm. I let the bags dry out and enjoyed the jewel on the Rhine including its
impressive Dom, a praetorian excavation, a museum depicting the Nazi rise to
power in Cologne and other various sights.
After Cologne I decided to reduce my travel distance per
day. I was now aiming at travelling approximately 40-60km per day. Below
Cologne, the Rheinradweg is incredible beautiful and easy to follow especially
on the right side of the river as you look south. Indeed this is the
recommended side to travel as it
stays truer to the Rhine. With the weather holding dry and temperatures around
zero to twelve degrees, conditions were perfect for taking in the breath taking
scenery. In particular the hostel in Oberwessel was located on top of a hill
beside an old and renovated castle. Other sights included
Lorelei ,
the pretty Koblenz and uncounted castles among a long list of others.
At Mainz I could not find accommodation and tried to get to
Frankfurt. On paper, it is easy as you simply follow a river branch off the
Rhine. On that weekend, a cargo vessel full of chemicals sank and so that track
was closed. I made a detour which became pretty ardours as it took me through
vineyards. There was no direct bike track for a long way and thus I ended up
doubling my distance. However I finally made it to Frankfurt. Frankfurt has a
spectacular skyline (unusual for us Europeans) but it is a pretty soulless
place filled with flashy bars and restaurants that lack substance and depth.
Sachsenhausen, the old part of the city does provide some more substance.
Form Frankfurt I stopped in Worms which is noted for the
Diet of Worms and has a nice old town. From there I travelled to Mannheim (which is a weird
city with a chessboard layout and no street names) and continued on to
Heidelberg. Here I delighted in the castle and the philosopher’s way which
cumulates in the ruins of an old monastery as well as the Thingstätte amphitheatre. Heidelberg
is a beautiful town. Afterwards I headed to the quaint but under construction
town of Karlsruhe. A large remodelling of the towns metro and tram system makes
it appear ugly but the people are very friendly. My final stop was Strasbourg
which is a historic and beautiful French town.
This was a fitting end to the trip.
Impression: Route
The route is highly recommended. It is visually impressive
and contains many distractions to get you away from the cycling. For the most
part the surface is paved though there are several sojourns across forested
areas without paving. Sign posts are pretty regular but the golden rule is
always to keep near the Rhine. Once you go too far away, you are on your own. If
you accomplish this, the route is flat and contains no climbs. However if you
do feel adventurous, most of the castles are located on top of the hills along
the Rhine and 10% gradients need to be overcome to get to these by bike.
Impression: Gear
The handling of the bike and the trailer held up extremely
well even under difficult conditions such as forest trails. The racing bike is
obviously not the best for these trails but the trailer added extra stability.
Under normal conditions the trailer lowers the centre of the gravity so there
is more manoeuvrability which helps avoid bumps. The panniers proved to be
large and water proof even under thunderous conditions. One thing is that the
bike with the trailer attached is difficult to take up and down stairs. Cycling
with the trailer does take a bit of getting used to but after 100km, I was
completely at ease.
I would make some improvements. A rear mudguard for the back on the racing bike would be an idea. A kickstand would also be very useful. For the trailer, a long carry strap would
be useful. Also a socket for a light would also be appreciated.